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MrRngr94
 Post subject: Recharging A/C
New postPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:24 pm 
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I just bought this recharge kit for my truck. It comes with some stop leak ,oil, & 3 cans of refrigerant. It's not R-12, but it's an alternative. My question is if there is a certian order I need to follow. Can anyone tell me when I should add the oil and stop leak?

Thanks - T
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cruznlife1
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New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:48 am 
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So your truck is originally R-12 ? Did you buy a conversion kit ? for 134a ?

Probably an interdynamics kit

I've used the retro kits, I HATE THEM.... If you are originally r-12 you can keep the system the way it is. R-12 is outlawed and if you can get your hands on it it's extremely expensive. What you want is something called "Freeze 12" it's an alternative that you just add till it's full. If you do want to use what you got, and you seriously wanted reliable cold air, I'd replace the accumulator, orifice tube, all the o-rings and flush the condensor, lines, and evaporator. Drain the compressor. Refill the compressor with the appropriate amount of pag 46.... Evacuate that system deep, for at least an hour, than with some gauges fill it with 134a. Should honestly cost no more than 100 bucks for the new parts, flush, o rings, and some freon. It would be the proper way to do it and be cold. If you were closer I'd do it for you at the cost of parts only. I'll be at slamfest, are you going ? I could step you through it.

If you are deadset on using what you got, than releive the r-12 vent it to mother atmosphere, she'll love that. The government will hide your body though. Anyways vent that, than turn the a/c on, the low pressure switch will keep the compressor off till theres pressure. Add the can of oil and stop leak, by this time the compressor may be kicking on and off. Add 2 cans of freon (these systems only hold like 20oz I think it was.) 2 cans, if the compressor stays on without cycling thats it. If you have gauges than even better fill it till it's full. But if it's not cycling it's full enough. If you put in too much your going to pop your high pressure release.
98 Ranger turbo, slammed 18/20, 400+ to the wheels, onboard PC, autometer everything, hid's, beamer paint

^^^ BURNED ALIVE ^^^
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cruznlife1
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:50 am 
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I just saw that you added a link. Yeah thats not a conversion kit, thats just like freeze 12. if your system isnt leaking oil now, skip the stop leak. Does it work at all ? If it does skip the oil charge too. Just throw a can of that freon in there till the compressor stays on and doesnt cycle.
98 Ranger turbo, slammed 18/20, 400+ to the wheels, onboard PC, autometer everything, hid's, beamer paint

^^^ BURNED ALIVE ^^^
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MrRngr94
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:57 am 
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I think it might have a leak from not being used in so long. Right now it just cycles on and off. You can here it clicking about every 15-30 seconds. I'm thinking it's possibly the front seal on the compressor. ANy idea how much those would cost and where I could pick one up from? Also, is there a way I can see if it needs any oil?
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Baha
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New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 8:17 am 
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MrRngr94 wrote:
I think it might have a leak from not being used in so long. Right now it just cycles on and off. You can here it clicking about every 15-30 seconds. I'm thinking it's possibly the front seal on the compressor. ANy idea how much those would cost and where I could pick one up from? Also, is there a way I can see if it needs any oil?


Hey man I had the exact same problem in my 93 but it wasn't the amount of freon, can you adjust the temperature with your a/c controls? Test that first, if you can't its a blend door problem.


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The Twanksta
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New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:04 am 
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I had the same problem in my truck, didnt have the time to do it myself...but i just got it recharged, no new parts and it works like new again. Im pretty sure its just the lack of pressure...
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bodydropped85
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New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:27 am 
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blah aww shucks a/c

usually a 134 change over is just evacuating the system and using a r12 to r134 adapter fitting on the sharder valves.
85 ranger-bagged,bodydropped,gathering rust for now
02-fx4 4.0 man. trans & t-case POS
87 jeep comanche-the FIRST b/d comanche, 16 in centerline coronas, s10 frame,2x3 back half,RHD:D
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MrRngr94
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 12:09 pm 
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I'm only doing this to please the missus. Hopefully in a year that bastard is coming off so that I can put my onboard compressor there!
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Wht01Ranger
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:00 pm 
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not cycling the compressor during winter will do that to you, happened to my 94mazda, the seals and rings dry up and will start to leak cause oil isnt running through the system
2001 Supercab SOHC XLT ranger


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cruznlife1
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 12:42 am 
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MrRngr94 wrote:
I'm only doing this to please the missus. Hopefully in a year that bastard is coming off so that I can put my onboard compressor there!


I have a/c and am currently working/desiging a way to mount a second a/c compressor for the air ride. Will be setup kinda like a supercharger.
98 Ranger turbo, slammed 18/20, 400+ to the wheels, onboard PC, autometer everything, hid's, beamer paint

^^^ BURNED ALIVE ^^^
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MrRngr94
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 12:39 pm 
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You know, I was thinking of doing that very same thing! Whenever you figure it out let me know!
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MrRngr94
 Post subject:
New postPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:19 pm 
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I have A/C now! It's wierd to me. I haven't driven with the windows up in a looooong time.lol All it needed was a can a 1/2 of refrigerant. Now it's blowing at about 50*
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