what is the best way to accomplish this sine there is that awoooooo curve in our door area?

I plan on making a template and bending the metal to match the curve. Shoudln't be that difficult...just a little time consuming.

you can make filler plates out of metal but it would be very time consuming. Also, most rangers I have seen w/ metal filler look weird because either the curves don't match up correctly or the side of the filler by the window isn't formed right. An easier way is to use a set of mirrors. I had a set of m3 mirrors laying around. Cut off the mirror from the base plate and use fiberglass to fill the hole. Then use bondo and just work it until it gets straight. James did one for me one day at work while he was bored and it looks great. The lines are perfect and it just bolts up like stock. Ill try to post some pics up sometime soon.

that probably won't last that long until it cracks man, bondo and plastic do not bond. you would have to cover the entire piece with fiberglass first.

no its pretty strong. should be no problem w/ cracking.

bondo will bend, depends on how thick you make it. FIBERGLASS doesnt bend. bondo IS plastic so it will bend slightly b4 it cracks, its on a non stress piece so there is no worrys

fiberglass and metal don't get along great to begin with. The properties themselves don't account for a 100% good bond.

How to make a templete with me just thinking of it now.

Take the screw studs out of the back of it. Form a piece of sheetmetal to the back of the mirror part itself. This way you can match up the profile of the filler piece to the back of the mirror assembly. BAM! you gots it.

the mirrors are plastic not metal, not fiberglassing the old mirror base on, just shaved a mirror, and were gona bolt it on ill get a pic tonite. sorry forrest musta be studyin to hard and forgot to post that. btw my mirror holes are shaved w/ fiberglass(1/2 in hole metal is to thin to not warp, i will panel bond some metal in there one day) and they havnt cracked in 4 years

ahh i gotcha i gotcha

lol It doesn't matter if it's structural or not, bondo/body filler resin/fiberglass does not bond to plastic, the thicker the worse. That's why body filler spreaders are made out of plastic. The elasticity doesn't really matter they both can bend, body filler/bondo is more brittle then fiberglass. I would coat the whole piece in fiberglass before you get it painted that way it has no edge to lift up on.

what about some JB weld lol

body filler is NOT more brittle than fiberglass im sorry. so ur saying when i fix a plastic bumper w/ some dolphin glaze it wont last?

I guess our fiberglass turns out differently, I can bend mine further then I can dried up body filler. Do you use alot of Resin?

Man I looked up the Dolphin Glaze that sounds like some bad arse stuff.

DOLPHIN - Brushable very fine finishing stopper.
High adhesion to Galvanised, zinc coated steel, cured paint and most plastics.

HIGH VISCOSITY DOLPHIN GLAZE
Can Be Used On The Following Surfaces: Bare Steel, Galvanised & Other Zinc Coated Steels, Aluminium, GRP, SMC, Most Plastics & Previously Coated Surfaces.

I thought you were using regular fiberglass and bondo man my bad.

ah its ok, were usin evercoat gold also u can get some stuff called filler honey from evercoat that will thin out the bondo and make it creamier than dolphin glaze. and once u add the gel coat to fiberglass its stiff as a board